Coming soon also will be some 30YW stuff for those who play "Lion Of The North" both a timber frame house and a collection of flags for use with 20mm Swedes.
If you want the rules for the games that I have just mentioned here just go to The Wrexham Wargames Club Page where they are available free of charge (Greedy businessmen everywhere throw up your hands in horror at that phrase).
I prove build all of the stuff on my page and it should stand up to the wear and tear of quite a few wargames, however it is very light (Well you canít have everything) so weigh it down inside with plasticine or stick a tab to the bottom which you can pin to the table wherever possible. I donít copyright the stuff here so do what you will with it except sell it, but above all have some fun with it.
I hope it gives you some ideas for designing and making your own stuff as well. Letís all get back to playing wargames again just for the sake of enjoyment. If you have any suggestions about the buildings (Please not rude ones) or have ideas for improvements, drop me an E-Mail.
These pictures should be viewed with a screen resolution of 800x600 pixels to come out right when printed directly from the web page.
A BRIDGE TOO FAR?
Bridge support and ramp
Bridge assembly instructions
Viking house from Hedeby
Card bridge assembly instructions.
1. print out the bridge parts on to thin card or paper. The road between the barriers on either side should measure 4 cm. If printed out on paper then glue the paper parts onto thin card (cereal packets do quite well for this).
2. cut out the parts. Note there are no tabs on this assembly.
3. Look carefully at the diagrams and using a sharp knife score along the lines to be folded. A fold line is always scored on the outside of the fold NEVER the inside.
4. Fold all of the pieces where necessary. The folds should be sharp and straight if you have scored the lines correctly. Donít worry about the bare pieces of card along the outside of the folded edges.
You are now ready to assemble the pieces into 3D shapes.
The bridge support
Cut out four pieces of card measuring 25mm x 20mm and score and fold them over half way along the 20mm side. Glue in one piece on the inside of each corner using a strong contact adhesive such as Evo Stick.. This system is much better than having tabs and gives the structure much more strength. Clip off the extra bits poking out flush with the support bottom side. You should now have a shape resembling a cube with no bottom. Using a dark red felt tip pen colour in the bare parts along the score lines. Repeat the process until you have sufficient supports to go between all of your bridge spans.
The bridge ramp
You will need two of these. Cut out two more tabs and fold them as before. Glue them in place with contact adhesive in the two corners. Look at the exploded view of the ramp and glue in the pieces of card shown there.
The ramp roadways
The barriers of the two ramp roadways usually need holding together while the glue dries. Wooden clothespegs are good for this. When the glue has dried cut out a rectangle of card to fit exactly underneath and glue that in place.
The bridge spans
These are assembled just like the ramp roadways. Colour in any exposed card areas with a green felt tip pen.
Using the T girders build a superstructure on each span. Again colour in any exposed card areas with a green felt tip pen. To build these can take some time. The modern bridge over the river Indal here in Sweden which this construction is roughly modelled has no superstructure, but many of the WW2 type bridges did.
To make it into a railway bridge which are rather a nuisance to divert much needed wargaming funds into do the following:
Cut out and glue down card sleepers to the road surface of each span and the two ramp roadways. Glue on rails made of long thin strips of card. You will have to cut these using a sharp knife as they tend to curl. This will give you a 3D effect on the railway, but you will have to paint it yourselves.
Donít join the spans as they need to be removed if the bridge is blown or hit by shellfire.